Everything about ALPHA ARBUTIN

｜Discoloration care, Alpha-Arbutin

All skin, regardless of color, contains melanin pigment. This pigment plays a very important role in our skin throughout our lives, but sometimes it can be a concern in terms of aesthetics. For those with such concerns, we recommend ‘Alpha-Arbutin.’ This ingredient is widely recognized for its exceptional effectiveness in reducing melanin pigmentation, as demonstrated by numerous studies that have been used as a reference point. 

｜Alpha-Arbutin  

Alpha-Arbutin is a water-soluble ingredient derived from berry plants such as bearberry. Its structure is a combination of hydroquinone and glycoside, and it is broadly divided into α-arbutin (Alpha-Arbutin) and β-arbutin (Beta-Arbutin) based on the combination form. Alpha-Arbutin not only functions as an antioxidant but is also known for its exceptional ability to address skin hyperpigmentation issues. This makes it a popular choice in cosmetic formulations.  

What are the benefits of Alpha-Arbutin?  

Deep within the epidermal layer of our skin, there are melanocytes along with the epidermal cells. These melanocytes are responsible for making melanin to maintain and protect our skin color. While it would be ideal if we could always make as much melanin as we need, but as a matter of fact, various internal and external factors stimulate melanocytes to make more melanin than necessary.  

When stimulated melanocytes make too much melanin, the excess melanin gradually moves to the surface of the skin and appears as hyperpigmentation.

Alpha-Arbutin is known to inhibit these stimulated melanocytes from producing excessive melanin. It works either by suppressing the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin synthesis in the complex process of melanin production, or by preventing the produced melanin from moving to the surface of the skin.

The efficacy of alpha-arbutin has been proven in numerous studies, and in South Korea, it has been functionally certified by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety as a skin whitening ingredient.

What skin types should it be used on?  

 Alpha-Arbutin can be used by anyone who is concerned about uneven skin tone or mottled pigmentation. It can help to brighten and tone the skin of anyone, regardless of their natural skin color.

Many factors can cause hyperpigmentation on the skin, and while it can sometimes fade naturally, it can also leave marks for a long time. Therefore, if you're concerned about uneven skin tone, using ingredients like Alpha-Arbutin that help to reduce pigmentation can be very helpful. Of course, it is necessary to use a sunscreen together.  

Can Alpha-Arbutin be used for acne marks?  

Yes, it can be used on acne marks. Acne often leaves marks because melanocytes are stimulated to produce more melanin during the acne process. While some acne marks may disappear naturally over time, severe cases can leave marks that are more visible and last longer than the acne itself, causing more concern. If you're concerned about acne marks, using products containing alpha arbutin to improve post-acne hyperpigmentation could be a good approach rather than ignoring them.  

Is there a difference between 'Arbutin' and 'Alpha-Arbutin'?  

If you look closely at the names of cosmetic ingredients, you'll see two different types of arbutin: arbutin and alpha-arbutin. The term "Arbutin" includes both alpha-arbutin and beta-arbutin, so an ingredient labelled as arbutin could be alpha-arbutin, beta-arbutin, or both.

If you're looking for products with arbutin, we recommend that you choose those with alpha-arbutin. This recommendation is based on research indicating that alpha-arbutin is more effective than beta-arbutin. Studies have shown that alpha-arbutin is more effective at inhibiting tyrosinase, the melanin-synthesizing enzyme than beta-arbutin, with some research indicating that alpha-arbutin’s efficacy can be up to 10 times greater. So, if you're using an arbutin product with the same content, you can expect more effective results from a product containing alpha-arbutin.

Is Alpha-Arbutin safe for the skin?  

In South Korea, the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set the concentration of Alpha-Arbutin for whitening efficacy certification at 2-5%. On the other hand, the European SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) has stated that Alpha-Arbutin is safe up to a concentration of 2% in facial products in 2023.  

｜Alpha-Arbutin is available at COSRX  

References

Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 289, 510-514 (2004)  
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 16, 265-272 (1994) 
Dermatologic Therapy, 20, 308-313 (2007)  
Bioscience, biotechnology, and biochemistry, 59(1), 143-144 (1995)  
Journal of Dermatology, 35, 570-574 (2008) 

by COSRX R&D CENTER.